Propagate Rose Cuttings


About Your Rose Stem Cuttings

Cutting Size

You will get cuttings that are about 6" to 8" in length, and about a pencil thickness or thinner. Some may even be thicker. They will have buds and nodes on them and are NOT the stems from the upper flowering part (which I find do not as readily root).

I may leave a few leaves at the top, but most likely they will die off, so I may take off all leaves.
All flowers/rose hips are cut off to prevent decomposing rot in transit.
I like to take the thorns off to make it less hazardous when handling them, but still, there may be thorns or tiny sharp hairs that I missed so use care when handling them. The stems are washed in very diluted mild dish detergent.

No Pesticides – No Herbicides – No Rooting Hormones

I don't use pesticides or herbicides growing my roses, and the stem cuttings are NOT treated with rooting hormone as they may also contain a fungicide.


I like to make it easier for you — The cuttings are cleaned and ready to plant when you take it out of the bag.
Your rose stem cuttings are wrapped & individually labeled by name. The bottom cut ends are at the bottom of the plastic bag and rubberbanded, so if you keep this orientation you will know which is the bottom to insert into water or soil.

Before You Unwrap Your Stem Cuttings

  1. Note which ends are the bottom (they will be towards the bottom of the plastic bag so that the ends can absorb the bit of water, and rubberbanded to keep the ends from drying too quickly.

  2. Take care when unwrapping as the roses may have sharp thorns.

  3. You may choose to recut the bottom ends, but I don't find it necessary unless it is rotted.

How to Tell Which Rose Cutting End is Up

  1. The Bud (^-shaped) will always be above the Node ring (sometimes a darker line around the stem, and/or a wider bump).

Soak the Cuttings (optional)

  1. Fill a clean jar halfway or more with water.

  2. Place the cut ends of the roses making sure the ends are in water.

  3. Leave the cuttings in for a week or two or longer.
    I like to leave my cuttings in the water for even 1-3 months.
    You may wish to change out the water periodically, but I rarely do, if it gets to that point, I just plant them in soil.

NOTE: During my move, I had cut several rose branches and placed them in a grocery paper bag in my garage--only to have forgotten to bring them home for a week. The branches had been in a broiling hot enclosed garage without water, and needless to say, they looked pretty dried out to a crisp. But I didn't want to just toss them out yet (these were the climbing Charisma roses), so I got an empty plastic detergent tub and completely immersed the stems for 2 weeks (no changing water). Then I stuck them into soil and hoped for the best. Well, I got about a 50% survival rate.

Plant the Cuttings

  1. Stick the stem cuttings about 2"-3" into a pot of garden soil, or enough to keep it from tilting over.

  2. Water well and let the water drain out. Water again when top of soil turns dry.
    For the first two weeks I like to water once a day, and the third and fourth weeks every other day.

  3. Keep in shade to partial filtered sun until new shoots have sprouted from the buds, and then move the growing cuttings into sun, and avoid hot afternoon sun. You will know if the young shoots dry up.

  4. Your roses may have its first bloom in about 6 months from placing into soil.

  5. NOTE: You may even wish to cut your cuttings down to 3" to 4" and double your plants, but they will be more prone to rot or dry up faster if you let the soil dry too long. The cuttings that are 6" to 8" seem to do much better, and if cuttings are even longer, the water has a longer length to travel up and down, and the cutting may end up more dehyrated with the upper part dying off. So 6" to 8" is a happy medium.